How to wear denim for work
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When the Nevada tailor Jacob W Davis first created a pair of denim work pants reinforced with copper rivets back in 1873, he could hardly have predicted the impact it would have on the modern wardrobe. Sturdy and practical, their mottled blue wash the perfect hue for hiding dirt and stains, jeans have since been adopted as the preferred choice of uniform for everyone from gold miners to Hollywood cowboys and rock stars. They have become so ubiquitous that even once strictly denim‑free zones are loosening their dress codes: Annabel’s in Mayfair now allows for “smart” jeans – if “in a solid colour and in good repair”.
“Denim was associated with hard manual labour for so long, and there were real class connotations,” says Emma McClendon, fashion historian and author of Denim: Fashion’s Frontier. In fashion, denim has often been used to subvert traditional dressing, she adds. It fascinates because “on the one hand, it’s incredibly homogenising”, but on the other it is a “chameleon”, taking on different meanings however it’s worn.
Today, semi-formal denim is a staple. “Whenever I’m getting somebody ready for a press junket or a low-key event, I always have denim on the rack,” says stylist Rose Forde, who works with Cillian Murphy and recently dressed actor Franz Regowski in dark jeans and a black leather jacket to attend the Saint Laurent men’s AW24 show. “It’s cool, it’s sexy, it’s effortless.”
The joy of styling denim lies in its versatility. A pair of stonewashed straight blue jeans with a white T-shirt suggests an off-duty attitude; pairing them with a cropped jacket, brown leather loafers and pop-colour socks looks polished with a hint of edge. “I’ve always loved the double denim look,” says Nicolai Marciano, creative director of the newly relaunched Guess Jeans label, which uses an innovative eco-friendly technology to recreate the stonewashed look. “I don’t think it will ever go out of fashion.”
Designer Luca Faloni, who is known for his elegant, Italian-made staples, creates dark blue tapered styles that are perfect for smartening up. “I wanted our jeans to have a minimal, clean design so they can be worn for more formal occasions if required,” he says. His denim shirts, which feature mother-of-pearl buttons and his signature one-piece paramontura collar, also lend themselves to dressier occasions. “I always recommend sticking to one denim item for timeless style,” he says. “Pair jeans with a shirt, blazer and smart shoes and wear a smart belt to elevate your overall look.”
Whatever your preference, the trick to making denim look smart is to make sure it fits perfectly, says Forde. “Something I learned about 15 years ago is to get your jeans tailored. As long as it fits well, you can’t go wrong.”
Loro Piana cashmere/cotton denim Spagna jacket, £3,955. Ami cotton shirt, £285. Canali cotton denim trousers, £320, and viscose handkerchief (around neck), £230
Guess Jeans cotton denim oversized jacket, £101, cotton denim slim shirt, £76, and cotton denim straight-leg trousers, £76. Polo Ralph Lauren leather braided belt, £110. Crockett & Jones leather Finchley 2 Horsebit loafers, £570. Pantherella cotton socks, £16. Tiffany & Co white-gold Lock bangle, £7,400
Jacob Cohën cotton denim jacket, £530, and cotton denim trousers, £325. Polo Ralph Lauren cotton shirt, £269, and leather braided belt, £110. Alec Doherty silver pendant necklace, £230, and silver bracelet (on left wrist), £265. Tiffany & Co white-gold Lock bangle (on right wrist), £7,400. Omega steel De Ville Prestige watch, £4,800
Polo Ralph Lauren wool blazer, £849. Luca Faloni cotton denim shirt, £160, and cotton denim trousers, £150. Sunspel cotton T-shirt, £90. Genevieve Sweeney cotton socks, £18. Crockett & Jones leather Finchley 2 Horsebit loafers, £570. Alec Doherty silver pendant necklace, £230. Tiffany & Co white-gold Lock bangle, £7,400
Giorgio Armani Denim Collection cotton/silk blouson jacket, £1,500. Paul Smith cotton shirt, £375, and cotton tie, £120. Filippa K cotton denim bootcut trousers, £250. Omega steel De Ville Prestige watch, £4,800. Tiffany & Co white-gold Lock bangle, £7,400
Brunello Cucinelli chambray shirt, £530, and silk tie, £210. Luca Faloni cashmere sweater, £295. Ami cotton denim trousers, £305. Pantherella cotton socks, £16. Crockett & Jones leather Finchley 2 Horsebit loafers, £570. Goossens palladium Boucle bracelet (top), £300. Tiffany & Co white-gold Lock bangle, £7,400. Longines stainless-steel Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve watch, £3,500. Alec Doherty silver and diamond Shy ring, £293.95
Casting, Tiago Martins at Ben Grimes. Model, Josef Ptacek at Present. Grooming, Ami Fujita using Bumble and Bumble. Digital operator, Okus Milsom. Stylist’s assistant, Lucia Bustillo. Shot at Control Room A, Battersea Power Station, London
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